Well I have to tell you that getting here was quite the adventure. We had a flight from Atlanta to Santiago set for a 9:15 pm take off. We were at the airport with plenty of time to spare and we found the gate with a plane so we figured we were good to go, Nope! They decided to change out gate which also meant changing the size of the aircraft. That means not as many seats as they had planned for and having to rebook everyone to make sure seat assignments were correct. Of course the airlines did not figure this out in a timely manner and before we knew it we were delayed 30 minutes. At that point they were trying to figure out who got on the plane and who they had to cut. It got ugly and we ended up being delayed until 10:50 pm. They were scanning people in with their tickets only to tell them that they needed to go back in the booking line to get a new ticket. It was crazy and there were a ton of upset folks for sure. Finally at 11:15 or so we got off the ground, 2 hours after the planned departure. And guess what, they did not make up any time in the air. So are arrival time went from 8:45 am to 11 am just like that.
All that being said we made it and it was 80 degrees and sunny so all of the headaches were soon forgotten. We were met at the airport by Paul Carr and he got us to the Marriott in downtown Santiago. Very nice rooms and a great view of the mountains. Paul had us booked at a very local restaurant in town called La Casa Vieja, and it was were the locals go for an authentic Chilean meal. We got there around 2:30 pm and walked into a packed restaurant. The place was nothing major to look at from the outside but inside it was really cool. It felt authentic and real. The smells were great and the tables set simply. Paul had arranged for an English speaking waiter, Nelson, whom we later found out had lived in New York for a bunch of years before returning to his home town of Santiago. He was amazing, telling us all about the food on the menu and what place it held in the kitchens of Chilean cooks. We kept asking questions and he kept educating us on the finer points of Chilean food and wine.
We started out with a local aperitif called a Pisco Sour. I guess some said it was like a whiskey sour but when it came to the table it was nothing like that. It was made from fermented grapes and a few other flavorings, the list is a long one, and finished off with egg whites. To me the flavor tasted like Moscato, it had the sweet and musty flavor. It was pretty delicious but a few of these and you may be headed for an early siesta. We also ordered a bottle of Carmenere reserve from Casa Silva and it was amazing.
We received a bunch of appetizers from the kitchen that included Ostiones a la Parmesana (Razor Clams with Parmesan Cheese), a little too heavy on the cheese but good, stuffed pig's foot with a fresh avocado and tomato salsa, a pork loin that was stuffed into pork skin and poached and served with a form of Pico de gallo and an assortment of chilled shellfish. It all tasted really good and fresh, not to mention the education we got sitting there. Nelson brought out a local dish next that is called Pastel con Choclo, this is a dish that has browned beef in the bottom of a clay bowl with chicken, olives raisins and toped with a fresh creamy mashed corn. It comes out a bit like Sheppard’s pie but wow what flavor; it was the hit of the day I think, at least for me, we kept spooning that out of the clay pots till it was all gone.
We moved on to entrées and most of us went with the recommendations of Nelson. The traditional beef that is slow cooked and served with mashed potatoes and a little of its braising liquid. Turns out to be the brisket and it was fork tender. Nice flavor and a huge portion. Nick got the boneless pork rib that was smoked and then braised and that was the better choice of the two. There was also a local flat fish that was served with capers and black butter that looked awesome and had the butter done perfectly.
Everyone was stuffed when Nelson brought out the desserts, a variety of flan, fresh fruit, some meringue and local fruit pie and some figs stuffed with Almonds. They were all good but the fresh fruit was exceptional. And just when you thought it was over Nelson bring out a traditional digestivo that is made from herbs and follows the big meals. It had the taste of Averna from Italy or Jagermister without the syrupy taste. It was mild so it finished off the meal in fine fashion. Then we had the chef come out for some Photo ops and applause.
We were at the table for 3 hours almost and we left feeling like we had a great start to this trip.
Now a little sleep is in order, not much for dinner after such a huge lunch, but that is the way they eat here in Chile so as they say, “when in Chile………..”
Tomorrow we are off to the wineries and some fruit orchards do it should be another great day. After all it is 80 and sunny so what can we complain about.
Ciao for now.
All that being said we made it and it was 80 degrees and sunny so all of the headaches were soon forgotten. We were met at the airport by Paul Carr and he got us to the Marriott in downtown Santiago. Very nice rooms and a great view of the mountains. Paul had us booked at a very local restaurant in town called La Casa Vieja, and it was were the locals go for an authentic Chilean meal. We got there around 2:30 pm and walked into a packed restaurant. The place was nothing major to look at from the outside but inside it was really cool. It felt authentic and real. The smells were great and the tables set simply. Paul had arranged for an English speaking waiter, Nelson, whom we later found out had lived in New York for a bunch of years before returning to his home town of Santiago. He was amazing, telling us all about the food on the menu and what place it held in the kitchens of Chilean cooks. We kept asking questions and he kept educating us on the finer points of Chilean food and wine.
We started out with a local aperitif called a Pisco Sour. I guess some said it was like a whiskey sour but when it came to the table it was nothing like that. It was made from fermented grapes and a few other flavorings, the list is a long one, and finished off with egg whites. To me the flavor tasted like Moscato, it had the sweet and musty flavor. It was pretty delicious but a few of these and you may be headed for an early siesta. We also ordered a bottle of Carmenere reserve from Casa Silva and it was amazing.
We received a bunch of appetizers from the kitchen that included Ostiones a la Parmesana (Razor Clams with Parmesan Cheese), a little too heavy on the cheese but good, stuffed pig's foot with a fresh avocado and tomato salsa, a pork loin that was stuffed into pork skin and poached and served with a form of Pico de gallo and an assortment of chilled shellfish. It all tasted really good and fresh, not to mention the education we got sitting there. Nelson brought out a local dish next that is called Pastel con Choclo, this is a dish that has browned beef in the bottom of a clay bowl with chicken, olives raisins and toped with a fresh creamy mashed corn. It comes out a bit like Sheppard’s pie but wow what flavor; it was the hit of the day I think, at least for me, we kept spooning that out of the clay pots till it was all gone.
We moved on to entrées and most of us went with the recommendations of Nelson. The traditional beef that is slow cooked and served with mashed potatoes and a little of its braising liquid. Turns out to be the brisket and it was fork tender. Nice flavor and a huge portion. Nick got the boneless pork rib that was smoked and then braised and that was the better choice of the two. There was also a local flat fish that was served with capers and black butter that looked awesome and had the butter done perfectly.
Everyone was stuffed when Nelson brought out the desserts, a variety of flan, fresh fruit, some meringue and local fruit pie and some figs stuffed with Almonds. They were all good but the fresh fruit was exceptional. And just when you thought it was over Nelson bring out a traditional digestivo that is made from herbs and follows the big meals. It had the taste of Averna from Italy or Jagermister without the syrupy taste. It was mild so it finished off the meal in fine fashion. Then we had the chef come out for some Photo ops and applause.
We were at the table for 3 hours almost and we left feeling like we had a great start to this trip.
Now a little sleep is in order, not much for dinner after such a huge lunch, but that is the way they eat here in Chile so as they say, “when in Chile………..”
Tomorrow we are off to the wineries and some fruit orchards do it should be another great day. After all it is 80 and sunny so what can we complain about.
Ciao for now.
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